HDT SWAYBAR PRICING AND AVAILIBILITY

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Germinator
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Post by Germinator »

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Last edited by Germinator on Thu May 03, 2012 9:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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155-low
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Post by 155-low »

Rectangular Hollow Section (RHS)...


This is my old school K-Mac rear bar...

Works really well...



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Knobby
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Post by Knobby »

my whiteline bar is exactly the same as that too
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Germinator
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Post by Germinator »

Yeah I have a Whiteline that is also fitted in the same fashion except it has the adjustable end fittings, three holes in the bar end and a swivel arrangement pivot link mounted on an flat bracket again with three holes.
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Knobby
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Post by Knobby »

oh yeah, mine too.

is there an advantage of running behind the diff to infront of the diff like in late models?
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GEMWRC
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Post by GEMWRC »

i have a older style selbys blue bar that goes in the standard position , does fine
archangel62
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Post by archangel62 »

Well, my whiteline's different :P

Mounts to the diff the same, but bolts to the standard body points at it's ends.
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barrett
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Post by barrett »

My sway bar

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Woody2.6
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Post by Woody2.6 »

RHS = Rectangular Hollow Sections

they flex through the travel standard.. i just added another mount off the end of the other boomerang mount so it will move on its own arch
Germinator
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Post by Germinator »

Well all mine don't look like performance parts. First thing I do is hot tank the springs and sway bars to strip the bright coloured pain coating back to bare steel then paint them with satin black urethane paint. Black suspension components look stock so they don't stare out as being modified parts. I prefer everything to look stock(ish)
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Nimbus
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Post by Nimbus »

Bah, get some 4340 and bend up your own swaybar of any dia. you want. Costs about $60, so you can have a stock one for the street, and a 40mm one for the track. :lol:
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stubbsy212
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Post by stubbsy212 »

Nimbus wrote:Bah, get some 4340 and bend up your own swaybar of any dia. you want. Costs about $60, so you can have a stock one for the street, and a 40mm one for the track. :lol:
A 40mm one would take some to bend it to shape without heat lol
Nimbus
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Post by Nimbus »

40mm is a bit big, but it would still be easy to bend up with a 90 ton shop press.
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orange_gem
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Post by orange_gem »

k-mac are the best i got a camber kit from him and a set of 500lb rear springs. just ordered my adjustable rear bar which i should get this week. from what i was told by Kevin (k-mac owner) they did all the suspension for the group c gems. with me know that why would you go with anyone else?

trust me camber kits make a poo poo load of difference when on and off the track. man it makes gemini's become a whole different car.
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Dusty Gem
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Post by Dusty Gem »

Germinator wrote:The concept of piggy backing isn't a bad one, it's actually the way certain cars were done. MK1 & MK2 Cortinas, MK1 Capris and MK1 & MK2 Escorts all used a piggy back bar system. The thing is though the bar was sized to calibrate a desired end tension. They also supplied new mount brackets and urethane clamp bushes to hold everything in place.
Some Mazdas also used this arrangement for aftermarket swaybars. The Capella/RX2, for instance. I fitted a set of Selby swaybars (and springs) to one years ago (1980?). The rear bar was just a single bar, as they didn't come with one originally, but the front one used a piggy-back arrangement to upgrade the original sway bar. Selby supplied all the clamps with the new bar (four in all) to clamp it to the old bar. It still used the original sway bar rubbers, but I upgraded mine to urethane bushes to locate it better, as the swaybar also acted to set the caster angle. Cutting more thread in the end of the swaybar where it mounted to the lower control arms also gave it much more caster (it had very little as standard), and more road feel. It improved the original woeful suspension out of sight, but was quite stiff. There was quite a market for the upgrade stuff, as plenty of people used to rally or race the RX2.

I remember Julian Edgar (http://autospeed.com.au/ ) wrote an article some years ago for Fast Fours and Rotaries about upgrading suspension on the cheap by using two sway bars piggy-backed.
Germinator wrote:Well all mine don't look like performance parts. First thing I do is hot tank the springs and sway bars to strip the bright coloured pain coating back to bare steel then paint them with satin black urethane paint. Black suspension components look stock so they don't stare out as being modified parts. I prefer everything to look stock(ish)
Yes, I did the same thing on my front Mazda add-on swaybar - it stood out a lot when it was bright yellow, but looked relatively standard when it was painted black! :D I left the rear one yellow, but as it was hidden under the rear of the car on top of the axle, it wasn't so obvious.
84 TG Gemini SL/X 5 spd, Koni 'reds', urethane bushes, extractors, Davies Craig thermo fan, Crane Cams ignition, re-graphed distributor; 98 Honda Civic Vti-R, Koni Sports.
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